Collagen hydrolysates from animal by-products in topical cosmetic formulations

Abstract

The circular economy of animal by-products rich in collagen focuses on converting collagen into peptides with a defined molecular weight. Collagen hydrolysates prepared by biotechnological methods from chicken gizzards, deer tendons, and Cyprinus carpio skeletons can be an alternative source of collagen for cosmetic products that traditionally use bovine or porcine collagen hydrolysates. Collagen hydrolysates were characterized by antioxidant activity, surface tension, solution contact angle, and other parameters (dry weight, ash content, and solution clarity). Furthermore, the vibrational characterization of functional groups and their molecular weight was performed using the GPC-RID method. Subsequently, emulsion and gel cosmetic matrices were prepared with 0.5% and 1.5% collagen hydrolysates. Microbiological stability, organoleptic properties, and viscosity were investigated. Verification of the biophysical parameters of the topical formulations was performed in vivo on a group of volunteers by measuring skin hydration and pH and determining trans-epidermal water loss. Fish collagen hydrolysate was the most suitable for cosmetic applications in the parameters investigated. Moreover, it also effectively reduces wrinkles in the periorbital region when used in a gel matrix.